Since antiquity, the Susa Valley has been among the most privileged corridors linking Italy with the lands beyond the Alps, thanks to the passes at Montgenèvre and Mont Cenis, through which pilgrims descended towards Susa. This route is composed of several distinct paths: from the Mont Cenis Pass to Susa, passing by the Abbey of Novalesa, Venaus, and Mompantero; from the Montgenèvre Pass to Susa, traversing, among other locations, the enchanting village of Fenils, Exilles with its imposing fortress, the vineyards of Chiomonte, and Giaglione; from Susa to Chiusa San Michele (site of the legendary battle of 773 AD between Charlemagne’s Franks and King Desiderius’s Lombards), via the castle of San Giorio, and ultimately dominated by the majestic Sacra di San Michele, to finish at the Abbey of Sant’Antonio di Ranverso—a renowned haven for hospitality and care of pilgrims. On the valley’s opposite side, the stretch from Bussoleno to Alpignano is marked by fortified houses, archaeological sites, and remnants of medieval castles. From here, the route led onward to Turin, and after Chieri, entered the Monferrato region heading towards Asti.
The Morenico-Canavesana section of the Via Francigena unfolds across a sliver of Piedmont which, after passing through the intimate Aosta Valley, emerges as a scenic and unexpected gateway to the plains. Nestled between the Aosta Valley stretch and that of Biella and Vercelli, it extends for approximately 50 km, crossing the territories of ten municipalities. Along this walk, one traverses a splendid portion of the Ivrea Morainic Amphitheater, shaped by the retreat of the Balteo Glacier—a geologic formation of glacial origin, among the best-preserved worldwide, dotted with lakes and characterized by the elongated profile of the Serra, a 25 km morainic ridge. Numerous rest stops catered to both body and spirit, and even today, it is possible to recognize a series of Romanesque landmarks, imbued with the atmosphere of a bygone era. For long stretches, the path coincides with the Royal Road of Turin Wines: a not-to-be-missed experience is the tasting of renowned DOC wines—Carema, Canavese, Erbaluce, and Caluso Passito—at local cellars and wine bars.
Between Santhià and Vercelli lay the crucial junction where, in the year 1000, pilgrims bound for Rome, having traveled the main axes from the Susa Valley and the Aosta Valley via Canavese, would converge. Thus, the Rivoli-Turin-Chivasso road axis acquired notable strategic importance. The historic center of Turin linked to the Via Francigena can be reconstructed within the so-called Roman Quadrilateral, the birthplace of Augusta Taurinorum, with its distinctive and orderly urban layout still clearly visible today. Beyond Turin, travelers continued along the Po River via the consular road towards Piacenza, braving considerable difficulties due to frequent floods, until reaching Chivasso, gateway to wetlands and marshes—now transformed into rice fields—spreading across the plains of Vercelli. The significance of this route is further attested by the fact that religious institutions such as the splendid Santa Maria di Lucedio, in the plains of Vercelli, were granted exemptions from tolls to ascend towards the Susa Valley mountain passes.
